In-Season August
Greengages
The greengage is a small, round, green plum with a yellow-green or golden, sweet, scented flesh. Wild greengages were possibly introduced to Britain by the Romans but, by the Middle Ages, they had disappeared from cultivation. The first cultivated greengage was brought to Britain by Sir Thomas Gage who lived in Suffolk, where growing conditions for the fruit are perfect. The green skin may not indicate sweetness but ripe greengages are mouth-watering when eaten raw and they make excellent jam or purées for pies and puddings.
Crayfish
Crayfish are the freshwater cousins of the lobster, and resemble them in all but size, being so small as to also resemble large, warrior-like prawns. The native UK crayfish (the white-clawed crayfish) has become threatened in its habitat by the introduction of the US signal crayfish to our waterways, so when sourcing your crayfish you should ensure that you're reducing the invaders' numbers and not those of the white-claw. The white-claw is a protected species, so you should never be sold them but, whether fishing with a rod or buying crayfish, the way to distinguish the signal from the native is that the underside of the signal crayfish's claws are a distinctive red. The good news is that crayfish is delicious and at its best at this time of year, so why not give them an American-style send-off either in a gumbo or a jambalaya? Crayfish are generally suitable for the same treatment as large prawns or langoustines. Chef Richard Corrigan recommends boiling in salty water with a healthy dose of bronze fennel in the water for flavour, but they are just as good in risottos, soups, stews and perfect for the barbecue.
Hare
Hare is not widely available but you should be able to find it ready to cook from game butchers or on menus at more adventurous restaurants. It's similar to rabbit in texture, but not in flavour: hare has dark brown, strong gamey flesh, which is very different from the pale, mild flesh of rabbit. Best cooked when young for tender meat, it's hung for a few days and skinned; the legs and saddle make the choicest cuts. Hare is popular throughout Europe and is often domestically bred. Traditional British recipes include jugged hare and roast leg or saddle of hare. If you don't fancy cooking it at home, let a professional chef cook it for you.
Basil
There are numerous varieties of basil but, in Britain, we are more familiar with two types: sweet basil and holy basil. Holy basil is commonly used in Thai and Asian cooking and, as these cuisines have become very popular in Britain, the demand for this herb has increased. However, sweet basil is even better known, giving us a taste of the sunny south and Mediterranean climes. Its bright green, succulent and tender leaves have a spicy, sweet flavour which marries perfectly with the flavours of tomatoes, garlic, aubergines and courgettes. A well-known recipe using basil, and lots of it, is pesto, which is used as a sauce for pasta or for chicken and fish.
Peas
Evidence that ancient Egyptians enjoyed peas comes from the discovery of seeds in the tombs at Thebes. Good quality frozen peas are fine but British summertime brings fresh garden peas that are at their best blanched and coated in a little melted butter. In Italy, peas are cooked with rice or with small chunks of bacon; the French also cook peas with bacon, adding onions and chunks of carrot. Pea and ham soup is a British favourite as is serving fresh peas with duckling. Older peas tend to be less tender than young ones and are best used to make soup or purée.
Also in season
lettuce
john dory
fennel
aubergines
peppers
courgettes
strawberries
sweetcorn
